More on the computer thing...

[shadowkat]

Well, I may have figured out the computer problem - too many archived emails.
It probably helps if you remember to clean out your sent emails every once and while, doesn't it? I had over 1595 of them. These are basically copies of emails you send to people automatically copied to your system.

So tonight have spent at least an hour - uninstalling unnecessary programs, deleting old word, image files and downloads that I no longer use, and emptying my email archive as well as all my sent emails - which is still going on. Takes a long time to get rid of over 1595 emails. Learn from my stupidity - do not archive email. Or if you do, delete from time to time.

Have a couple of questions for my computer friends, who so kindly provided advice - enough to make me think through the problem.

1.what does Systems Resources: 37% free? (Before I uninstalled the Norton Antivirus and removed additional programs and files - 89% free. Now removing everything but the email archive = 61% free. Removing the email archive = 37% free. Is this a good thing??)

2. After you uninstall something, can you delete it from your hard drive?
What if there is no way to uninstall something? Should you delete? Or would that do horrid things to your computer?

Comments

[graffitiandsara.livejournal.com]

1. Systems Resources is a piece of memory that Windows uses to maintain the visual elements on screen. As you use your computer, opening this, running that, it's going to decrease. As you close windows and applications some of the resources are returned, but not necessarily all. The only way to totally clear all the crap out of the resources is to reboot the computer. So if you went from 89% to 61% it just means that the uninstall process used some system resources that it didn't release. Next time you reboot you'll get them back. Removing the e-mail archives will free up disk space, which is a good thing, but won't free any memory up, and shouldn't affect your performance unless your disk is almost full.

2. After you uninstall a program feel free to delete the folders for that application if you're absolutely sure what it is you're deleting. If you can't uninstall something it's kind of a crapshoot whether or not you can delete it manually. Some applications can be deleted with no problems at all, some may cause some errors during startup without really affecting how the system runs, and some may screw you up. If you're not low on disk space I wouldn't delete anything that you can't uninstall. If you are low on disk space (remember disk space isn't the same thing as memory) than be really careful.

Does this make sense? Let me know if you've got any other questions.

[cactuswatcher.livejournal.com]

I hope your computer is working a little better now at least.

System resources usually refers to how hard the computer is working at the instant, not how much free space is left. That can change very quickly, and doesn't mean a lot unless you're looking at it through a whole series of tasks.

You can see better how much space you now have on your drive by opening the "my computer" icon, right clicking on your hard drive icon and then choosing preferences. You'll see a pie chart of how much hard drive space is full and how much free. After what you've done you'll have a lot more free than you did.

Once you uninstall something the computer can use the space again. There is a security process for protecting data that can be used to erase what's left, but that's not necessary for you. As far as being able to reuse the space is concerned your programs are gone.

Hope things are much better!

[londonkds.livejournal.com]

Most of the time uninstalling programs will delete the files as well, but ocassionally random individual files can be left on there taking up space. There is a problem with some spyware/malware programs actively trying to resist uninstallation, but hopefully you won't have any of those.

[shadowkat67.livejournal.com]

Ah - this explains why it was 37% when I was online and removing email, and 57% offline.

So the only way you can get more memory or free up memory is if you literally do it manually - or get someone else to who knows how?
That's a problem unfortunately - since I really can't take this baby in and I can't add a hard-drive to it in order to upgrade the memory, well I can, it's just logistically impractical and for me more expensive partly due to the logistic problems and time commitments than getting a new one. (One of the catch-22's of having a job and the minuses of living in Brooklyn without a car.)

So...this brings up another question: If I were to get a new computer,
what one would you recommend? And how much memory/bits should it have?
Also should I go with Desktop - via Dell, or try for a laptop via
someone else? (Can't do Apple since all my writings are in Windows and they don't convert, or didn't when I tried it a few years ago. Not sure if that's still true.)

[shadowkat67.livejournal.com]

A little better, thanks.

But still having internet connection problems. If it's a memory problem, not sure I can fix it - due to logistic/time constraints, not to mention that I'm really uneasy about fiddling with my computer's harddrive. Some things I don't mind fiddling with, ie - faucets, shower heads, toilets, but electrical ones, I leave to the experts.

Might be easier for me to get a new computer. (But I might ask Dell - to see if I can upgrade the one I have - without too much problem.)

[graffitiandsara.livejournal.com]

You don't need to add a hard drive to add memory - they are two different things. But adding memory does involve opening up the case, and purchasing the right memory can be confusing, so I don't think that's something you want to get into.

I think in your position a laptop is a much better choice for you than a desktop if you do buy a new PC. One of the main advantages of a desktop is that it's easier to upgrade and repair, but that isn't something you are going to do. Since you'll be bringing it in for repair or to have it upgraded, you're much better off with a laptop. Take a look at Dell laptops, I've used them at work and like them quite a bit. But check out other brands as well.

One thing to keep in mind is that a new PC is not going to solve your disconnect problems. That's coming for using a dial up line. The telephone infrastructure is not being maintained because of the deregulation of the system. It's no longer cost effective for the telephone companies to maintain the wiring because they often have to lease them to competing companies. The disconnects are caused by noise on the telephone lines. And as the infrastructure gets worse the lines will get worse.

If you're deciding between DSL and a new PC, I think you should go with the DSL. I think you'll still be disappointed with your internet performance with only the new PC. Of course the best case scenario is both, but that's easy for me to say since it's not my money involved.

Let me know if you've got any other questions.

[shadowkat67.livejournal.com]

Thanks for this.

The tech at the doc's office told me they bombed london again - can't get on lj to check outside of this email response. Hope you and rah, oursin, and the others are okay?

[londonkds.livejournal.com]

I'm OK and I assume everyone else is. The bombs seem to have been either very low-powered or failed to explode apart from the detonators - only one person is reportedly injured, suspected of being one of those responsible.

[atpo-onm.livejournal.com]

One remaining thing you can do if you haven't already-- defragment your hard drive. This will be especially helpful after you've deleted all the unnecessary stuff, and can cause a significant speedup by reorganizing the file structure on your hard drive. Are you familiar with how to run this process? (It's pretty simple.)

Note: Be sure to temporarily disable your screen saver (if you use one) before running the utility, and don't run any other programs at the same time you're defragging, or the defragger will keep stopping and looping back.

[atpo-onm.livejournal.com]

OK, a second remaining thing that just now occurred to me-- the computer company that now owns the audio store I work for is currently selling off a batch of these laptops that were recently part of their leasing program. They're not very old, they look pretty decent, and the price is really reasonable-- like around $500 or so. They run XP Pro and have a pretty fast processor. Let me know if this is any interest to you, OK?

[shadowkat67.livejournal.com]

Uh no. How do you defragment and what does it mean?

Don't use a screen saver - so not a problem.

[shadowkat67.livejournal.com]

Thanks - but I think I want to try and get one from Dell - to be sure of what is in it. Although am still wavering on which to get. As cjlasky once told me - the difficulty Americans have is too many choices. I think that's my problem, too many choices and uncertainity what to go for.

I'm willing to spend up to 1300 on a notebook, give or take a bit. But would rather not go over the 2000 price mark.

[atpo-onm.livejournal.com]

If you've never done this, then for sure it should be done. Easy to do, as I said. Just Google "defragment hard drive" and follow the links, there's plenty of them to choose from, many with explanations of what the term means.

The short answer is that defragmentation takes the scattered bits and pieces of your files stored on the hard drive, and re-organizes them so that they access more quickly. Most regular computer users do this every month to every 3 months or so to keep the machine running at top speed.

One main bug to look for is that the process can get stuck in a loop if other programs are running in the background or if Windows just darn well feels like it. (Esp. with WIndows 98). Once the process starts (it can take an hour or more, so don't do this if you will need the PC soon) come back in about 15 minutes and check the progress bar on the screen. If it's still at less than 5%, you're looping. Terminate the process and check with someone here for how to correct for this bug.